Benihana is an American restaurant company that was founded by Hiroaki
(Rocky) Aoki in New York City in 1964, and was the creator, or that is what's believed, of Yum
Yum sauce.
This sauce has become very popular and many versions
exist as bottled sauces that you can find in markets and online.
My take about the creation of Yum Yum
sauce...
In
kitchen testing, a sauce was needed for his Teppenyaki
dishes. One point was clear, he wasn't trying to please the
Japanese diner but rather American taste buds and with that in mind
they must have experimented. I wasn't there of course, but being a chef and
culinary teacher for many years, and having seen chefs
experiment, I feel Yum Yum probably happened this way:
His chef probably said, "Mizutaki Sauce would be perfect!"
Maybe Rocky replied: "Make it so Americans like
it---what's a sauce Americans like?" They all said "ketchup"
so they added it and Yum Yum was born?! Yes, it was probably
adjusted a bit more before they had a final recipe. In the
classic Japanese Mizutaki recipe, beef broth is an
ingredient. In recipe testing it was elimintated. Instead of
making mayonnaise from eggs, oil and vinegar as they first
did making it from scratch, they used commercially made, also
paprika was added for color. Ketchup adjusted the taste and
a little zip was needed so they added white pepper and some
ginger juice. I'd bet anything they added a few drops
of Worcestershire too. Of course this can't be confirmed
because Rocky died in 2008, this is just my opinion. I tried
to reach out to Benihana about its origins but never heard
back from them.
Today instead of each restaurant
making it, it's more than likely they make it in a company
commisary and then ship quanities to individual restaurants.
So you can make a comparision,
here is the authentic recipe for Japanese Mizutaki Sauce like
it is made in Japan---from the "Japanese Country Cookbook, " by Russ Rudsinski
Creamy Mizutaki Sauce
2
eggs
2 T rice wine vinegar
2 cups vegetable oil
1/2
cup sour cream
4 T shoyu...shoyu is Japanese style soy
sauce that's made from fermented soybeans, wheat, salt and
water and is lighter in color than regular well known brands
of soy sauce
4 T Mirim
2 T beef broth
Combine
eggs, vinegar, 1/2 cup oil in blender until creamy. Slowly
add the remainder of oil in blender on high speed until it
forms a mayonaise. In a bowl, mix the other ingredients.
There are literally hundreds of recipes for the
sauce online. I even saw one with maple syrup! No one
recipe translates to the quantity that the restaurant
probably originally made and certainly they didn't make it
every day. Also I'd bet that Benihana used fresh garlic
and onions in their concoction and in general the recipe
was probably like this
and
was easy for a cook to follow---
Probably a close to original YumYum
recipe---
amount/measure/ingredient
4 gallons extra heavy mayonnaise
1 #10
can of ketchup
1 500 ml of seasoned rice wine vinegar
1 250 ml Mirim wine
1 cup of sushi ginger juice
100 ml
Worcestershire Sauce
1/2 cup paprika
2 tbsp. ground
white pepper
400 gr. sugar
1/2 cup salt
1 tsp.
cayenne
2 quarts of sour cream
2 lbs.butter melted
2 tbsp. mashed fresh cloves of garlic
1 cup pureed red
onion
All was probably put into a 32 quart stainless
steel pot and then emulsified with a Robot Coupe immersion
blender for mixing, and then transferred to smaller
containers for storage. More than likely that was only a
week's supply.
Like many recipes,
there are tweaks chefs put on them. Here is my good guess of a
home quantity of the original sauce:
home quanity made as a test
batch---Yum Yum Sauce
amount/measure/ingredient
1
tbsp. seasoned rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp. pickled ginger
(sushi ginger) juice
1 tbsp. Mirim wine
¼ teaspoon
fresh finely minced garlic, mashed to a paste
1 tbsp.
grated red onion
2 tbsp. butter, melted
1 cup
Hellman’s mayonnaise---or other thick style
1/2 cup sour
cream
1/2 tsp. Worcestershire Sauce
1 tbsp. Heinz
ketchup---its flavor profile is the important factor for using
this brand
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
½
teaspoon Spanish paprika
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
pinch of cayene pepper
Directions:
Combine all
ingredients together in a bowl, blend until everything is
thoroughly mixed and smooth.
After adding the melted butter
Transfer Yum Yum sauce to
a container, then refrigerate for a few hours. As the butter
chills, the sauce will thicken slightly, so stir it up before
using.
OK ready to try.
One day later we tried it with
thin strips of hibachi beef, volcano onions, seared shimp,
tuna and chicken. Yum, it tasted just right. I
wonder though if the sauce is still made this way? Is garlic
and onion power now used, what about vinegar powder instead
of the liquid, a specific brand of ketchup may have been
replaced with a house made one and sour cream may be
powdered to help stablize creaminess. Unless there is
insider information we may never know as Benihana recipes
are more than likely not given out. We will just never know!
A common Internet recipe on Pinterest