Title: Gluten Free on a Shoestring
Author: Nicole Hunn
257 pages; Softcover $19.00 US/$22.00 CAN
Publisher: DaCapo/Lifelong Books, Cambridge MA, 2011
Reviewed by Chef John Vyhnanek, March, 2011
The review---
Let's face it; everything is expensive these
days, especially food. Many of us never learned to cook and this
just complicates matters. And for some, a few relatives
included, who can't eat wheat gluten it's even more so. So in a
combination of all three it's quite challenging. Now there is
help. Gluten-Free on a Shoestring by
Nicole Hunn presents 125 Easy Recipes for Eating Well on the
Cheap.
I've had students in my cooking classes who
couldn't eat gluten because they had celiac disease. All were
always concocting recipes for flour substitutes using rice
flour, chick pea flour, cornmeal and every possible non-gluten
ingredient we had on hand. In restaurants people often ask for
Gluten free bread, sauces and desserts. Ten years ago it was a
chef's nightmare, if they weren't prepared, for such a request;
at least there was always a loaf of rice flour bread in the freezer
or a reduced and naturally thickened sauce in the refrigerator.
That was then---
Now gluten-free flour is very common and
readily available but expensive at about $5.00 a pound compared
to regular flour at .50 cents per pound. King Arthur brand
contains white and brown rice flour, tapioca starch and potato
starch; other brands also include xanthan gum and potato flour.
The advantage to these pre-mixed flours is availability and
consistency---not the price! So if you must eat gluten-free and
still want somewhat "normal" food, it will cost you more!
This is where Gluten-Free on a Shoestring
can help you. Nicole has a plan that starts in the first chapter
and continues in chapter 2. It's how to prepare food efficiently with all eyes toward s the cost. Some recipes call
for cooking in advance when you have time and others for making
items in bulk and freezing them all in an effort to not spend
all your time in the kitchen cooking. When it comes down to
basics her approach works: take her recipe for tomato soup, it
doesn't need flour in the first place so it's gluten-free to
begin with. Once you realize this you are all set. Another
recipe for pot roast is in the same vein, no thickening needed
as it is just braised meat with natural cooking juices. Many
other of her recipes that once called for flour can be made with
gluten-free flour that you buy and with the addition of xanthan
gum--viola! You have a very-close-to-original dish! Nicole makes
it easy for you to understand this---good job!
There's a
nice picture on the front cover of the book of a popover,
looking at it inspired me to try this recipe. I whipped it up in
no time and had excellent results because I have a popover
baking pan. It was delicious, light and airy with a crisp outer
shell and soft custard-like interior, it was even better with a
bit of fresh creamery butter!
I recommend this book for
anyone who is gluten "challenged". With Nicole's suggestions and
guidance you can reduce the cost of cooking gluten-free and
still eat extremely well with her delicious gluten-free recipes.
Recipes Tested!
Popovers
Makes 6 large , or 12 small popovers
If you've
never had popovers, you've been missing out. Crusty on
top, almost pudding-like at the very bottom, popovers
are super easy to make, require very few ingredients,
and you can even use a plain old muffin tin. Although
using a special popover pan does make a more beautiful
presentation, and the spacing between the cups helps
them to puff, you can live your whole life without a
popover pan very nicely, thank you.
1 cup
all-purpose gluten-free flour 1/2 teaspoon xanthan
gum 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon unsalted
butter, melted and cooled 2 extra-large eggs, lightly
beaten, at room temperature 1 cup milk (low-fat is
fine, nonfat is not), at room temperature
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease well a 6-cup popover pan
(or a regular muffin tin, if you don't have a popover pan) with
unsalted butter and set it aside.
2. In a large bowl,
whisk together the flour, xanthan gum, and salt. Add the butter,
eggs, and milk, whisking well after each addition until the
batter is smooth. The batter will be thin.
3. Fill each
of the wells in the pan just under halfway full. Place the pan
in the center of the preheated oven and bake for a total of 30
minutes. After the first 20 minutes, with a sharp knife or with
sharp kitchen shears, pierce the top of each popover to allow
steam to escape so that the popovers are able to maintain their
puffiness.
4. Serve plain or with your favorite jam or
preserves.