For the Love of Food: Recipes and Stories from the chefs of the IACP

175 pages with 75 recipes; Many color photographs. Hardcover

Published by the IACP, 2005 with FRP, Favorite Recipes Press, sponsorship. 

Reviewed by Chef John J. Vyhnanek


The Review---

How could you go wrong with this cookbook? The answer is---if you don’t buy it! Contributing IACP member chefs read like a "who’s who" of the culinary profession. Todd English, Charlie Trotter and Rick Bayless are some of the celeb crowd, while Terry Thompson Anderson, Walter Potenza and Louise Lamensdorf have plied their chef skills in a less apparent manner. Thirty-four chefs contributed with their styles of cooking which melded into this master work. Of course the book is well written, with an attractive layout and great food photos. Overseeing this cookbook project were executive director, Daniel D. Maye and executive editor, Sarah R. Labensky, two of the most highly regarded figures in the American food world. Along with the IACP members, talented food stylists, writers and photographers, this book must have been fairly easy to publish. 

What is the IACP?

“IACP is a not-for-profit professional association which provides continuing education and development for its members who are engaged in the areas of culinary education, communication, or in the preparation of food and drink.
The Worldwide membership of nearly 4,000 encompasses over 35 countries and is literally a "Who's Who" of the world of food. This diversity not only offers unique insight into the world's cuisines, but provides excellent networking opportunities.”

“In 1978, a small band of culinary educators founded the Association of Cooking Schools (ACS) to promote the interests of cooking schools and cooking teachers. The organization was incorporated in 1979 and the membership quickly expanded to include teachers and schools from other countries. In 1981, the name was changed to the International Association of Cooking Schools (IACS).
Culinary opportunities began to expand, and membership eligibility was broadened to include food writers, cookbook authors, food stylists, and chefs. Because the organization's focus broadened so rapidly, in 1987 the name was changed to the International Association of Cooking Professionals. When the Food Marketing Communicators organization merged into IACP in 1990, the name was further refined to the International Association of Culinary Professionals.”

“IACP's vision is to be a worldwide forum for the lively development and exchange of information, knowledge, and inspiration within the professional food community.”

The Review, continued---

Good Cooking likes Lidia Bastianich for her style of cooking and the straight forward approach she exudes in her television show, so one of her recipes was a must to try. Fortunately we had a really good chicken stock in the refrigerator, which was the secret in making this simple soup. Tomato and bread soup was made with olive oil, onions, garlic, tomatoes, chicken stock, basil, and salt and pepper---and the bread. It was easy to make, it was simple ingredient-wise and it was delicious.

Some ingredients used in a few of the recipes might be hard for you to find at your local market. Such was the Bison tenderloin used in Charlie Trotter’s Bison with Root Vegetable Pavé. Good Cooking used beef tenderloin in its place and the result was very good although probably not as richly flavored. The recipe involved several steps and the pavé needs to be made the day before serving, so it can firm up before cutting. The presentation was a little flat because of the brown hues of the pavé, sauce and meat. The parsnip puree perhaps was too white with the white plate? I would have preferred a tuft of Mache or carrot tops to add the necessary green contrast the plate needed. The rosemary leaves weren’t enough and added a raw flavor to the otherwise balanced flavor of the dish.

Good Cooking could have chosen any number of other recipes to test, but in all fairness we actually thumbed through the book, with eyes closed, and voila! Louise Lamensdorf’s Citrus Soufflé Tart was the selection. A citrus flavored tart shell was formed from the dough, which had Cointreau in it along with grated orange. After baking, a citrus and passion fruit cooked custard was made and after chilling, whipped egg whites were folded in, just before filling the tart shell and baking.

The result after cooling and chilling slightly was fantastic. This was really good! Upon slicing and plating with citrus sauce and sprinkling with powdered sugar, I wondered if it should also be garnished with the orange, lemon and lime zest in the picture of the tart? I always poach any citrus zest in a sugar syrup, ever so briefly to rid them of the strong citrus oils and bitter taste. The recipe didn’t mention the zests so you can simply leave them off or follow my lead. 

Citrus Soufflé Tart, Louise Lamensdorf

serves 10

5 egg yolks
6 tablespoons sugar 1/4 cup lime juice
1/4 cup grapefruit juice 1/4 cup orange juice
1/4 cup passion fruit concentrate 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 egg whites
1/8 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup sugar citrus crust confectioners' sugar, for garnish citrus sauce

Beat the egg yolks in a bowl until foamy. Add 6 tablespoons sugar and beat until the mixture forms a ribbon. Stir in the lime juice, grapefruit juice, orange juice and passion fruit concentrate. Pour the mixture into a saucepan and whisk in the butter. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. Pour into a bowl and refrigerate until the mixture is firm, about 3 hours.
Beat the egg whites with the salt until peaks begin to form. Add 1/2 cup sugar gradually and beat until the egg whites are firm and shiny. Stir 1/4 of the egg white mixture into the souff16 filling to lighten the mixture. Fold in the remaining egg white mixture gently.

Pour into the baked tart shell. Bake for 15 minutes in an oven preheated to 375 degrees. Cool for 1 hour. Garnish with confectioners' sugar. Serve with citrus sauce prepared by making another soufflé filling and adding 1/2 cup whipped cream instead of the egg whites and sugar.

Citrus Crust

21/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar
grated zest of 1 orange 8 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (11/2 sticks) unsalted butter, diced and frozen
2 tablespoons Cointreau

Process the flour, sugar, orange zest and salt in a food processor until the orange zest is well combined. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture becomes the consistency of a coarse meal. Add the Cointreau through the feed tube in a steady stream, processing constantly until the dough begins to form a ball.
Shape into a circle and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Roll the dough to fit an 11-inch tart pan. Chill for at least 1 hour. Bake at 350 to 375 degrees for 20 minutes; cool.

Tomato and Bread Soup, Pappa al Pomodoro, Lidia Bastianich

The ripeness and flavor of the tomatoes is imperative for this dish. Therefore, make the soup when the tomatoes are abundant and ripe and at their best-in late summer. This "zuppa" is delicious warm or served at room temperature on a hot summer day.

serves 8

5 (1/2-inch) slices Italian bread, crusts removed
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for serving 1/2 cup finely diced onion
6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and juice reserved, or 1 undrained (35-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
4 cups chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 10 fresh basil leaves

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and toast until light golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a deep heavy 4- to 5-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté, stirring, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until golden brown, about 6 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and their juices to the saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Add the toasted bread and chicken stock and return to a boil. Season with salt and pepper.
Add the basil leaves and reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer, uncovered, whisking occasionally to break up the bread, until the mixture is thick and smooth, about 40 minutes.
Remove the garlic and basil leaves if desired. Strain the soup through a fine sieve, pressing the solids through with a ladle. You may first process the soup with a food mill fitted with a fine disk if desired. Correct the seasonings. Serve in warm bowls and drizzle with additional extra-virgin olive oil.

The bottom line recommendation is to buy this book! It is 100% quality all the way from the front cover to the back. The recipes all appear to be proven and perhaps all tested. As with any recipe you may find that you will “tweak” them a little in order for you to satisfy your own taste buds. You can purchase the book only through the IACP website, or at lease it seems that way as I didn’t find it to be available on Amazon or through Barnes and Noble.
  

Disclaimer: Good Cooking is a member in good standing of the IACP. Our membership did not affect the review of For the Love of Food in any way.

© '2005 by Good Cooking, Inc.